Documenting THE 2008 Audi RS4
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    • PSI Racelines Ohlin TTX36
    • Rotor Repair (Attempted)
  • Contact Me
  • Mods & Maintenance List​
  • Home
  • Performance History
  • General Info
    • Audi Approved Oils
    • Fluid Capacities
    • Maintenance Schedule
    • Manuals & Other Info
    • Production Numbers
    • Vin Decoder
  • Engine & Drivertrain
    • 034 Motorsport Transmission Mount
    • AMD 3" Catback Exhaust
    • AMD 3" Downpipes
    • AMD Clutch
    • AMD Supercharger
    • Engine Compression
    • HSJ Hi-Flow Cats
    • K&N Air Filter
    • Oil & Oil consumption
  • Events & Outings
  • Exterior
    • Fog Light Upgrades
    • Front Plate Delete
    • Laser Interceptor >
      • Overview
      • Rear Sensors
      • Interior Install
      • Front Sensors
    • LED City Lights
    • LED DRL's
    • LED Tail Lights
  • Interior
    • Dome Light Rattle Fix
    • P3cars Vent Gauge
    • Stereo Upgrade
    • V1 & VoodooTec Display
    • Ziza Interior LED's
  • Miscellaneous
    • P310B: Fuel Sensor Gone Bad
    • Gas Mileage
    • VAG-COM Changes
    • Wish List
  • Photos and Videos
  • Wheels, Brakes & Suspension
    • Current Setup
    • PSI Racelines Ohlin TTX36
    • Rotor Repair (Attempted)
  • Contact Me
  • Mods & Maintenance List​

'PSI Raceline' Ohlin TTX36 Coilovers  // 10.22.2013 

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I never thought I'd get rid of the Stasis Motorsports...loved those on my B5, and it was one of the first mods I did on this car, and I loved 'em on here, too (details of prior install here).

But, along came some forum members looking to get into a set, and I got a ride in an RS4 that had these Ohlins' installed, and well - here we are.

I went for the 3-way adjustable set, which provides more flexibility than the MS kit (MS is two settings on front, 1 on rear; these are 3 settings on all four, see more details below). I should back up: while price doesn't always indicate quality, it really kind of does here. This kit is close to twice the cost of the Motorsports and that's all due to quality. Quality of the shocks themselves, quality of the surrounding hardware, and the adjustability. What's also nice is that based on their design, you don't need an external reservoir  at all; it's all contained within the shock body.



With these shocks, you can adjust:
  • Low speed compression
  • Low speed rebound
  • High speed compression

Front shock to the right. You can see the two adjustment knobs. 
  1. Rebound is adjusted by left dial (without the rubber cap)
  2. Compression is adjusted by the right dial. Take the rubber cap off and you'll see a dial within a dial allowing you to independently adjust high and low speed compression

Rear shock shown below. Same adjustments as fronts available (not that visible from that angle).
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Pics below show shock dyno results: how they are shipped from the factory, along with the maximum and minimum bounds of their adjustment. 

I've only made one change so far: 8 clicks stiffer on all 4 for high speed compression. They recommend adjusting by 4 clicks at a time, but I wanted to dig right in and make sure I felt the difference, which I definitely did. Great still at slower speed/impact, and a good bunch tighter when faster. It's going to be easy to get completely lost in turning nobs, so I'm going to take it nice and slow. 
 
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Front shock dyno
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Rear shock dyno
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